Today, we focused on folk culture from a few vantage points. After a long sleep and a good breakfast, we set off for the storied local caves. Joining us was a few friends (Ronel & Romeo again, but also Patrick, who knows truly everything about this region.) We went in to the caves with clean clothes and mild trepidation, and we emerged unbelievably dirty and empowered! In between, we walked amongst the various "rooms" where Native peoples (the Arawaks) hid from Columbus (so the story goes) and peasant leaders hide, still, when political feuds become violent. The caves proved a peaceful place to visit; we even had a brief moment of silence in the total darkness, listening to water drip. Most of us felt we could have "zenned-out" for longer. It was as close as one can get to an almost biblical quietude! I was impressed with the group; it was an adventure that required some grit ;) Locals think of the cave as a cathedral of sorts. Oungans (voudou priests) used to perform ceremonies in the caves, but the spirits became too powerful once underground, so people stopped trusting the caves as a place into which they could invite the lwas (gods).
After we walked back, along the river, on this beautiful, breezy day, we plopped our muddy selves in the ocean. While the kids swam and chilled, I had a moment to speak with some local fishermen and write the alphabet in the sand with a 5 year old boy eager to write his name...always humbling, as I know it is unlikely he will go to school. Mike (my pops) and Dr. Steve (dear friend and powerful advocate for Borgne) have been with us every step of the day...they usually work the whole time they are here, so it has been fun for them to see the historical side of the community. And, we did go, as a group, to a special place called Waka. This lake is believed to connect Haiti to Africa. Surrounded by unique rock structures and Spanish moss, the deep & clear waters of Waka possess healing powers. We listened to Patrick explain the history of the lake and share some of the amazing stories of healing. Ronel also explained that people are able to recognize that there needs to be another world for the spirits because our world is not as open to them as they require. When pressed if he believed, he explained: "humans are complex. It is not for me to believe or not believe, but to accept." The good spirits come from Africa to Haiti...folks here are very perceptive about global politics, and they pull no punches about their pride in blackness. Still, they treat us all like family. Dignity. It is the local export.
This evening, the kids did some more painting at the hospital and, ....wait for it,.... played with the kids who are here. If it were not against the law, I think a few members of our group might return with wee ones from the hospital in tow....I get it. I have a soft spot for a baby named Julianna who, at two months old, weighs 4 lbs. It is heart warming to see them bond with one another as well as with people here. The nurses walk by and smile at me, as if to say...thanks for bringing good people here.
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| Steve, Killian--aka Mulugeta, and Mike |
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| Patrick and Hugo |
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| the area was prepared for a voudu ceremony, but I think our appearance put an end to that ;) I have seen a ceremony at Waka before and hoped we might again today, but the lwas were not with us |
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| Steve and Romeo |
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| Our group! Overheard today: 1. had no idea I could do this much in one day.... 2. Gonna be tears when we leave....3. I want to stay all summer. 4. Please stop taking pictures. So, all good here, fams! |
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